Rotten Fascia Replacement
Fascia boards support your gutters and close the roof edge. We replace rotten, split or water-damaged boards with durable timber or low-maintenance alternatives built to last in Wellington weather.
The fascia is the board along the roof edge that carries the spouting; the soffit is the lining underneath the eaves. Both are easy to ignore until paint starts peeling, the spouting begins to sag, or a brown stain spreads across the soffit, and most calls for fascia and soffit repair and replacement in Wellington start with one of those signs. By then water has usually been getting behind the spouting for some time, and the timber has started to soften.
We repair and replace fascia and soffits on Wellington homes of every age, from villas with original native timber boards to 1970s houses with pine fascia that was never primed on the back. We find out why the timber failed, fix the cause, and replace only what needs replacing. Where the whole roofline is tired, a metal fascia system may be worth considering instead.
Fascia boards support your gutters and close the roof edge. We replace rotten, split or water-damaged boards with durable timber or low-maintenance alternatives built to last in Wellington weather.
Damaged soffits allow moisture, birds and pests into your roof space. We repair or replace them, restoring ventilation and giving the eaves a neat, protected, finished appearance, from day one.
New fascia and soffits are primed and painted or supplied pre-finished, sealing them against moisture and UV so the work lasts and your home's exterior looks sharp, from a local team.
Timber at the roof edge fails for predictable reasons, and if the cause isn't fixed, new timber goes the same way within a few winters.
Blocked or undersized spouting spills over the back as well as the front. Water running down behind the spouting soaks into the fascia face and runs along the soffit, staining it and softening the joints.
A failed joint or outlet drips onto the same piece of fascia every time it rains. The rot is usually concentrated in a short length directly behind the leak, often near a corner or a downpipe.
Where the roofing doesn't overhang far enough into the spouting, or there's no drip edge, wind-driven rain gets behind the spouting and onto the top edge of the fascia, where it sits and soaks in.
Unsealed end grain at scarf joints and corners soaks up water. Once the paint has cracked, timber that was never primed on the back or ends begins to decay from the inside, out of sight.
Each time spouting is refixed, new screw holes go into the fascia face. Unsealed holes and corroded nails draw water into the timber, and a board riddled with old fixings softens around them until brackets no longer hold.
South-facing elevations and eaves under trees stay damp for days after rain. Leaves and moss packed into the spouting hold water against the back of the fascia, so the board never properly dries out between storms.
When rot is confined to a short section, we cut back to sound timber and scarf in a new length of treated timber, glued and fixed at an angled joint so it doesn't open with movement. The new piece is primed on all faces, including the back and ends, before it goes up. A single damaged section rarely justifies replacing a whole elevation.
Where rot runs along the board, or the fascia has been patched so often that spouting brackets no longer hold, full replacement is the better spend. It is usually timed with new spouting, since the spouting has to come off anyway. Our spouting and fascia page covers how the two are planned together, and gutter removal explains how the old system comes off without damaging what stays.
Not every repair has to be timber, and soffit damage needs its own approach once the cause above it has been dealt with.
A folded metal fascia, often in Colorsteel to match the spouting, can replace timber and removes the repainting cycle. Some systems combine fascia and spouting in one profile. They suit 1960s to 1980s homes with long, straight eaves particularly well.
Where the timber is sound but tired, a metal cover can be fitted over it. We check moisture levels first, because covering damp or decaying timber hides the problem rather than fixing it.
Water-damaged soffit linings sag, delaminate or develop dark stains. We replace the damaged sheets, check the soffit framing behind, and fit new linings to match. Full relining is covered on our eaves and soffit lining page.
Soffit linings on homes from the 1950s to the 1980s may contain asbestos. We have suspect sheets tested before cutting or removing them, and if asbestos is confirmed, removal is carried out by a WorkSafe-licensed asbestos removalist.
Where a soffit sheet has dropped or a fascia joint has opened, birds and wasps get into the roof space. We close the gaps with trims or blocking, and mesh any ventilation openings so air gets in but nests don't.
On villas and bungalows with tongue and groove soffits, damaged boards are replaced with timber in the same profile where it can be sourced or milled, so the repair blends in once painted rather than showing as a flat sheet patch.
Fascia and soffits hold your gutters, close the roof edge and keep pests and moisture out of the roof space, so when they rot the problems spread quickly. Our specialists replace damaged boards with durable timber or low-maintenance alternatives, cutting back to sound material and treating exposed edges properly. We repair soffits to restore ventilation and a neat finish, then prime and paint or supply pre-finished products that resist Wellington's moisture and UV. Gutters are refitted or replaced as part of the job so everything works together. You get honest assessments, careful carpentry and a tidy exterior that looks sharp and lasts. Ask us anything before you commit.
Fascia and soffit work usually ties in with the spouting, the roof edge and the gable ends of the house.
Call our team if you need advice for your property or roofing project.
04 888 0115Look for peeling paint along the bottom edge, dark patches, gaps at joints and spouting that has dropped or pulled away. Up close, rotten timber feels soft when pressed with a screwdriver. Rot often starts behind the spouting where you can't see it, so checking with the spouting partly unclipped is the reliable way to know.
Sometimes. The spouting can be carefully unclipped, the fascia section replaced and the spouting refixed, provided it is in good condition and the profile is still available for any damaged joints. If the spouting is old or rusty, it usually makes more sense to replace both at once.
Treated timber suited to exterior use above ground, typically H3.1 treated pine, primed on all faces before fixing. Board sizes and profiles are matched to the existing fascia as closely as possible, so on character homes the roofline looks consistent once it is painted.
Brown or dark stains under the eaves usually mean water is getting behind the spouting or through the roof edge and soaking the soffit from above. Occasionally they come from a roof leak further up the slope. Fixing the stain without fixing the source is wasted effort, so we find where the water is coming from first.
Metal fascia doesn't rot or need repainting, which suits exposed sites. Timber is easier to repair in sections and suits character homes. Near the coast, choose a metal grade suited to the exposure zone and rinse the unwashed areas under the eaves, where salt builds up.
Experience a top-notch roofing services wherever you are in Wellington. Get in touch with our team and will come back with you a free, no-obligation estimate for any roofing service.